for weaving

The simultaneous weaving face to face of two warp pile fabrics without using wires. Each fabric has its own ground warp, but one series of warp pile threads forms the pile for both cloths. The pile threads are bound in the top and bottom cloths alternately, and after weaving are cut in the middle to form two entirely separate cloths. Usually the pile threads are severed in the loom.

נֵסֶלv. נִיסֵל.

Reeds are counted in two systems: (1) Those in which the count or sett is expressed by the number of dents or splits contained in a given space, and include the Radcliffe, Huddersfield, Stockport, Scottish and Macclesfield systems; (2) those in which the count or sett indicates the number of groups of dents contained in a given space. These groups are variously termed beers, porties, or porters, and include the Bolton, Bradford, Dewsbury, Leeds, and Dundee systems. For details see under each system given. REED, ERDMANN - A patented reed used to weave ondule or waved patterns. The wires are specially shaped, and the reeds are raised and lowered in the loom while weaving. REED, FLEXIBLE - Specially constructed reeds used for leno weaving where the douping threads are very thick. They are made by wrapping only one baulk with pitched cord and the other with unpitched cord. REED MARKS - Marks or streaks running the warp way of the cloth. Marks uniformly across the cloth are usually due to insufficient warp threads per inch. Isolated marks may be due to a defective reed. Reed marks may also be caused by incorrect setting of the warp rollers, incorrect timing of shedding and picking, and also by wrong weighting of the warp. REED, OMBRE - A mill term in the U.S.A. for reed marks in cloth showing in the form of streaks running warp way and caused by irregular spacing of the warp threads. REEDS, ONDULE, FAN, or PAQUET - Specially constructed reeds used for weaving wave effects down the cloth. They are of many forms, and when weaving are raised and lowered as required for pattern (see Ondule)

The jacquard machine is an essential addition to looms intended for weaving ornamental designs that are beyond the scope of stave -work. The machine is made in many forms and sizes for different branches of the weaving industry, but its characteristic feature is that it furnishes the means whereby every individual thread in a design may weave differently from all the others. This permits the delineation of all forms and shapes and the fineness of the detail is only limited by the texture, e.g., the number of ends and picks per inch. The action of the jacquard machine is communicated to the warp threads through a system of cords known variously as the harness mounting and jacquard harness. Actually, loom harness ante-dated the jacquard machine by many centuries, and many draw loom harnesses were much more complicated than modern jacquard harnesses. An essential feature of a jacquard is that each hook in the machine can be lifted at will independently of the others. The selection of which hooks shall lift and which shall be left down is made by the designer, by painting marks on squared paper to indicate the hooks that must be lifted on each pick. In cutting the pattern cards, a hole is cut for every mark or filled square on the design paper, and a blank is left for every empty square on the paper. Assuming that each pattern card represents one pick of weft, when the card is pressed against the needles of the jacquard, the blanks push the unwanted needles and hooks out of the path of the lifting griffe; the holes allow the needles to pass through and thus remain stationary, so that the corresponding hooks remain in the path of the lifting griffe and cause the corresponding warp threads to be lifted. Jacquard: Single-lift, single-cylinder - In this machine there is only one griffe which lifts on every pick, and only one pattern cylinder, which strikes every pick. This restricts the speed at which the loom can be operated. Jacquard: Double-lift, single-cylinder - This is the machine in most common use for ordinary jacquard work. There are two lifting griffes and twice as many hooks as in a single-lift machine, but only the same number of needles and one card cylinder. The shed formed is of the semi-open type, which causes less movement of the warp threads, as any threads which require to be up for two or more picks in succession are arrested in their fall and taken up again. Double-lift jacquards give a greatly increased loom production as compared with single-lift machines, as they permit the speed of the loom to be increased to about 180 picks per minute for narrow looms, as compared with 120 to 140 picks per minute for single-lift jacquards. Jacquard: Double-lift, double-cylinder - In this machine there are two sets of hooks and needles, two lifting griffes and two card cylinders, odd picks in one set of cards and even picks in the other set. This permits maximum loom speed, it prolongs the life of the pattern cards, but is open to the serious drawback that spoiled cloth is caused whenever the two card cylinders get out of correct rotation. Jacquard: Cross Border - Fabrics with borders, such as tablecloths, bed quilts, etc., are woven with jacquards with two griffes, two sets of hooks and two card cylinders. The cards for weaving the border are laced together and weave on one cylinder, while the centre cards are on the other cylinder. The loom weaves at the speed of a single-cylinder, single-lift machine, and the change from the border to the centre cards can be made by hand or automatically

See Drawing (Spinning) ———————— The order of drawing-in the warp threads through the eyes of the healds for weaving. The general principle is that those threads that work alike are drawn on the same stave. To avoid crowding the healds, those for weaving plain fabrics, poplins, etc., often have the ends drawn on four or six heald staves. It is a feature of weaving by healds, particularly those operated by dobbies, that very large and intricate patterns can be woven on 16 staves or less. Some drafts are so simple that they are known in the trade by name as those illustrated. Straight Over, shown at SO, in which one thread only is drawn on each stave consecutively from front to back. Skip Shaft, shown at SS, in which the threads are drawn on four staves instead of two, staves 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, being tied together to permit their operation by plain weave tappets. Point Draft, shown at P, where the first part of the draft is straight over from front to back and then returns from back to front. Double Point Draft, shown at DP, where the draft is straight over twice and from back to front twice. Broken Drafts are those not capable of being reduced to any simple regular order. See also Design, Draft and Lifting Plan. ———————— A fine, all-wool, warp ribbed cloth; used in churches during the 18th and 19th century on the Continent.

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